Make the tray to accept the wooden top. Cut the angle steel into 12-inch lengths with 45° angles at the ends. Tack the pieces together making sure that the pieces form 90° angles. Make any adjustments to the angles and finish the welds.
Make and attach the legs. Cut 4 pieces of tube steel 30 inches long. Tack weld the legs to the tray at 45° angles (so the legs face each other). Tacking the legs will allow for slight adjustments to be made later.
Cut the leg bracing. We need 8 braces for the legs that are 8 5/8 inches long with 45° angles cut. Tack weld two of them together to make a 90° angle. Do this three more times.
Attach the bracing. On each of the legs, mark the location of the leg braces. We wanted the braces to be in the middle of the legs, but they could be positioned nearer the top or the bottom for varying effects. Tack weld the bracing into position. When all four braces are attached, tack weld them together in the middle. If all has gone well, there will be a square home in the middle of the bracing.
Make the feet. Cut four pieces of 1/2-inch-thick bar steel into 2 x 2-inch squares. Use a cold chisel to mark the center of each foot. Drill holes in the center of each foot. Use a 3/8 tap to make threads in the holes. The threaded holes will accept 3/8-inch bolts for leveling the table. Tack weld the feet to the legs.
Finish the welding. Now that the whole table is tacked together, finish all of the welds.
Now, on to the top.
Rough-cut the top. Cut an 18-inch length of the board. I like to use a jig saw for this because it is perhaps the safest way. A circular saw might bind in the wood if the board is warped or twisted. The extra length gives me wiggle room during the rest of the surfacing process.
Joint one face of the board. Since my jointer is only 6 inches wide, I have to joint as much as possible to create a flat length in the board.
Plane both sides. Place the flat side of the board down and slide a 1/8-inch piece of Masonite under the flat portion of the board. This should make the board stable for running through the planer. Make a couple of passes through the planer to make one whole side flat. Flip the board over, remove the Masonite and make a couple more passes through the planer. The result should be a board that is flat on both sides and even thickness.
Joint one edge. Now that the board is flat on two sides, run the board through the jointer a couple of times to make one edge flat and 90° to the faces of the board.
Let the board rest. Lay the board aside overnight. Wood has a natural tension in it. When you cut it, plane it and joint it, you are changing the tension within the board and it needs to adjust itself. What this means is that it might warp a little. Once it has rested, it will need to be run through the surfacing process one more time with a few light passes to get it back to true.
Cut the board down to size. On the table saw or with a circular saw, cut the board to proper width and length. The proper width and length will be determined by the inside of the tray. My length and width are around 11 5/8 inches, but this could vary depending on the thickness.
Apply Rust-Oleum NeverWet. Coat the whole base in 2-3 coats of Step 1. Wait 30 minutes and apply 2-3 coats of Step 2. The Rust-Oleum NeverWet will create a slightly foggy surface on the wood, but water will fly off the top. It does not, however, protect the board from expanding and contracting with the change in the humidity (all wood does this, even the studs in your house).
Set the top. Place the dried wooden top in the tray.
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